1989: Potato, Shiitake and Brie Gratin

writes Amanda Hesser: that lover of Mr. Latte

and mocks brie,

for some friskier Freds

named Stichelton and Garrotxa

-- now there are names

i could give my kid

to stand out in a crowd

Most everybody likes fancy, so

says the $20,000 coffee bar

Mr. Egami's maker

of Zen Plato's Joe

sweeter

juicier

moussey

Who can miss Quijote

tilting at perfection's quest?

I'll visit these

apotheosi of coffee

and zeniths of cheese

and not lament the old soft molds

and meaner tars

nor even these pinacles

even when the new heights come

for it's not in the tilting,

but the windmills;

where the fiction lies

NYC Jan 2008